Finisterre – the end of the earth


After a marvelously restful night’s sleep, with probably the best pillow of the trip, we slowly got up and got moving. About when we planned to depart we finally had a sighting of our Irish friends. They stayed out enjoying the company of a previous year’s hiking companion. Looking a bit worse for wear we decided to head out, knowing they’d come along later as we were booked at the same albergue.


It was a cool, misty start to the day limiting any views of the ocean until we approached Finisterre. We passed this interesting house with tile murals depicting pilgrims as well as other charming narrow streets and gardens.  I was feeling quite at home with the sea mist, cool air, seagulls squawking and waves lapping the shore. The beaches are beautiful and with few people on them today. As we approached the town a man handed us a card, which told of a vegan restaurant up ahead. That put some pep in our step. We found the place, called The World Family, and ducked in. Quite hippy-dippy, with an over abundance of incense and unusual characters, but the food was delicious. They told us of their mission to help pilgrims needing support. Nice.


We walked in through the town and soon we heard “I’d know that ass anywhere”. Tony and Stephanie had caught up to us. A few blocks more and we found our albergue – another hippy-dippy place.  This one had been recommended to us by a number of people. We may have to rethink our friends. We got our rooms after passing a meditation room, where apparently they also do yoga. Upstairs as we opened packs and tried to settle in someone in the meditation room was playing an out of tune guitar. Then to make matters worse others joined in singing out of tune. Augh! I looked at Mandy and said “let’s get out of here and go wander around”. So we did just that after trying to get laundry done. We ended up at The Pirate’s Bar, where more characters kept appearing. First it was a guy named Sean, another Irishman, who stated he hiked the Camino Frances 4 years ago and never left. Next he called over a guy called Angel to play his guitar for us, with another buddy showing up to sing with him. They were actually decent to listen to. And then, as happens on the Camino, people you’ve met show up. First we saw Connor walking by so we hauled him. Then as we were leaving, there was Gladys. Off we went in several directions to find dinner agreeing to meet later to head out to the lighthouse.



Finisterre, or the end of the earth as they thought of it in the days of the early pilgrims, is often considered the end of the Camino after Santiago. One has to walk out of town another 3.3km to get to the point, where there now stands a huge lighthouse. It’s known for gorgeous sunsets, but one did not show itself this evening, as it remained overcast all day. Still, it was eventful for all of us to reach the point where the Camino km marker said 0.0.  That meant lots of km and walking for us all. After photos galore we soaked in the ambience and the achievement and even got somewhat of an evening glow in the sky. Soon the lighthouse light began it’s warning light and we walked back to our la-la land albergue.

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