Down from the mountains


The usual suspects gathered as we headed out early this morning having our longest day yet in front of us, 30 km (19 miles) into the city of Lugo. We had our last day in the mountains and we’re now heading into lower, more rolling hill terrain. Longer mileage but easier terrain than we’ve had. It was overcast and foggy early on making it delightful conditions for walking in the cool morning air. It was such a difference in conditions that I remarked “This is so nice I could do this all day”. To which Tony responded “Good, as you’ll have to!” Spot on as usual. We carried on until we were surprised to find a small food truck next to a church selling coffee. Considering that we knew this long stretch wouldn’t have cafes or bars it was a welcome diversion. A woman came out of the church and offered to stamp our credentials (which all pilgrims carry to prove they’ve hiked) then suggested we look into the church. We haven’t done that except in some of the small ones right on the way, but this was a very ornate one, compared with the little ones.



We plodded on, finally coming across a small grocery where we could buy lunch supplies. As we left the store we passed an industrial type bakery operation and found them loading a van with fresh baked bread. We were able to buy two baguettes, thanks to Mandy’s Spanish capabilities. We all broke the loaves and shared them as we walked. Best bread we’ve had all along the way.

The day was just one continuous walk in rolling paths and some time on paved roads, which none of us like. At one point Stephanie said to Mandy “At least we’re not walking to Mexico”, to which she responded “i’ve already done that!” We stopped several times to eat, lunching at another cute spot where we found and industrious pair of locals with a cart selling drinks and a bit of food with some great picnic tables.


Eventually we made it to the city of Lugo, the largest city we’ve been in thus far. It has the center of town surrounded by a Roman wall from the 5th century. After walking around in circles a mite we finally found the pension we booked to stay in. Many of the albergues were full, so this was a real treat. A room with a shower to myself! A real towel! A hairdryer! Goodness, I hardly knew how to act. 

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