After a wonderfully restful night, despite a few annoying mosquitoes that buzzed around but luckily did not bite, we got up for another day. We were to have a short hiking day so we took our time, letting the others in the room pack up and leave. Having coffee and toast we chatted with a pair from Sweden and Australia.

We headed out toward Negreira, where we had stayed the night on our way out to Finisterre. Today’s batch of hikers that we passed were much cheerier than yesterday’s. Lots of happy greetings, with the inevitable odd looks now and again, as if we didn’t realize we were heading opposite the main way. But then we got stopped by several women asking about hiking back, how good the markings were, how to find one’s way, etc. Nice to be the ones in the know to pass along information that would help. Plus, where not to stay in Finisterre and where to stay in Muxía. Not as nice were the number of mountain bikers zipping by without warning, acting like they owned the path. Never mind that the vast majority are hikers. 

We stopped for coffee at the bar just off the path where the group stopped previously, with the owner who stated he had done the Camino on his horse. They were just as nice as before, but it seemed mighty lonesome without our Camino family with us. Hence the sad faces. Before we left the Portuguese hiker, who was the massive snorer in Dumbría, along with his companion, whom we dubbed Ghandi, showed up. They had also shown up last night at our albergue for dinner but fortunately were staying elsewhere. Therefore the better night’s sleep.

We managed to find the really nice alternative route that went by the river to walk back into Negreira. We stopped at a bench along the way for a bit of a snack and watched a local man herd his sheep and goats to pasture and a fisherman poke his odd pole time and again into various spots in the river. 

But what a difference coming into Negreira than when we left. Previously the town seemed totally asleep with no one in sight, but today it was alive with activity as we came across a local market. Sort of a cross between a farmer’s market and a flea market. I found a pair of pants and a shirt for next to nothing that I could wear going home, since the few hiking clothes I have look dreadful and still don’t smell that great even after washing. Figure my fellow passengers might appreciate it. I also got my first taste of churros, both a plain and chocolate – delicious!

We settled into an albergue we saw before across from the great fruit market. But there always tends to be a glitch. Today’s first one was with laundry. We had a similar issue in this same town at a different albergue. Maybe it’s a Negreira curse. We did the wash and once again it came out sopping wet. After much hand wringing, we put it in the dryer. Six euros and two cycles later it was still wet. Argh! As we only snacked mid day we were hungry so went looking for food. Alas, it’s Sunday and the fruit market and the grocery store closed at two. Sigh. And most bars/restaurants are either closed or not open until the usual 8 pm. Sigh. Finally found a spot open. Then it was off to a commercial laundry to see if those dryers would do the trick. And, yay! Success.