We met as usual for breakfast, but immediately afterwards Cyndi and I hoofed it a short ways to Mountain Cafe. They serve the Bhutan grown and roasted coffee. We got ourselves a delicious brew, enjoyed even more after the instant coffee served at the hotel. Bag packed and put outside the room, we were set to get rounded up for today’s adventure.

We began driving east toward Punakha, with much along the way. As we were leaving Timphu we could easily see the huge Buddha up on the mountain. We were just mentioning to each other that we’d like to stop for photos when Passang said we were! Out we piled with phones ready for action. It was amazing to see how well situated the statue was, overlooking not only the capital but the entire valley.

Onward we drove climbing higher. Eventually we reached Dochula Pass, at over 10,000 feet. Not only did we get to see the 108 Stupa but the peaks of Bhutan’s northern Himalayan border. The stupa were built in 2004 to honor the Bhuntanese soldiers who fought in the insurgence. We wandered amidst the stupa, which were arranged in three concentric circles.

We wandered across the road and up the hill to find marvelous views of the stupas and the mountains.

And then it was time to drive down the other side of the pass. Oh, my! it was nothing but steep road and curves and hairpin turns for mile upon mile. Some harrowing spots where cars just felt the need to pass even on curves! Yikes! Fortunately we have the best driver, who goes cautiously and gives way to the passing cars.

Eventually we made it down to just over 4,000’ and into the rural area outside Punakha. The driver stopped at the top of a hillside and let us disembark. We walked down a pleasant area, first with some local shops. Rather to mixed amusement and dismay we came across shops focusing on the phallus. No kidding. About, but not quite equal, to the phallus museum in Reykjavik, Iceland. Buildings with penises painted on them, shops selling penis trinkets and even a man riding a penis. Crazy.

Thank goodness that was short-lived! We soon came upon rice fields, which had just been harvested and they were beginning to thrash the stalks.

Field of other produce were also passed as well as a prayer wheel moved by water.

But best to come was lunch in a local farm house! Oh, what an extraordinary delight! Off came our shoes as we entered inside to find a large table and benches. Soon we were served butter tea. Sounds odd but was delicious served with 3 kinds of rice.

Incredibly food just kept coming out! It was all intriguing and delicious.

If that wasn’t enough our host then brought out guava and rice wine to top off the meal.

We had noticed a beautiful lute hanging on the wall and to our delight we found that our driver could play and our guide could sing! We were thoroughly entertained!

Our host, who was the third generation in the house, was also our chef. She was so patient in answering all our questions about life in the village.

And now we come to the rest of the story about the phallus fixation. We drove to the Chimi Lhakhang Monastery which was founded by Lama Drukpa Kuenley, also known as the “Divine Madman”. His story is beyond crazy so you may want to google it. The kind thing about it is that the place is believed to enable conception in childless women.

We were able to enter to view the temple, to be blessed by the monks and to see a photo album supposedly of people having been ably to conceive after visiting the temple. Once exciting Jane and I heard music and went exploring and found another building with monks playing music. Surprisingly I was allowed to take photos.

But then! What did we witness? A young woman carrying the heavy penis replica on her back circling the temple! Guess she desired a pregnancy.

Well! Enough of that! Off we went to what by comparison was rather tame – a farmer’s market. Got to check out the local produce then relax in a riverside cafe.

Time to head to our hotel – Zhingkham Hotel. What a ride it was! Up and up a crazy one lane zigzagging road that had us all wondering where we were heading. It’s a lovely spot over looking the river and the incredible Punakha Dzong.