Day one exploring the city. Or at least what we managed given the circumstances.
We began with breakfast at our hotel, the Harrington Residency. It’s an interesting building with only 4 rooms, with a very international guests list from England, Germany, Japan and us. We hired a car and driver for the day, who met us at the Residence.
We drove quite a ways, across the Hooghly River into Howrah. Eventually we reached Belur Math, which was a peaceful place along the river with a temple to Ramakrishna. Taking off our shoes we were able to walk up and around the temple. There were multiple other buildings, including one to his greatest disciple. We also witnessed people in the river, both reverent and playful. The interesting part about this place is that it blends architecture from Hindu, Christian and Islamic influences. All are welcome to pray.
It was back into the car and through cityscapes again. It’s hard to describe the chaotic nature, the cacophony, the endless number and variety of people, shops and vehicles. It’s crazy and amazing all at once. Here in after I will think of the sound of Kolkata as the music of horns. It’s incessant! It makes no sense how much they lean on their horn, except when you see how they drive! What’s amazing is that most cars are in great shape. We saw only one accident. But the busses and other small vehicles are generally in an atrocious state.
Eventually we made our way to Kumartuli, the potter’s quarters where hundreds of artists are making clay based idols. It was incredible! They start the figures made out of straw, then cover them in clay and hand paint them. Some are beautiful and some are grotesque. It’s street after street of them.
There were also artisans doing some incredible beadwork decorations.
We walked further along the river where we came upon a place that was a crematorium and then a building in which to pray. But the delightful sight just beyond was a bride and groom dunking in the river with their beautiful clothes apparently for photos.
By then we were thirsty so Lily, our guide said she’d take us for Indian coffee. We had no idea what to expect. We would never have gone up the staircase to this rather vast old, established shop, yet it was fascinating. We sat and awaited the white clad waiter to take our order. Lily suggested the special coffee. It was delicious and while strong, we enjoyed it.
By then it was getting on in the afternoon and we only had their services until 1600 we opted to skip lunch. But mainly due to the fact that we were stopped in endless traffic. For a good 45-60 minutes. Mostly due to massive street protests by a group called BJP, advocating “save democracy, remove anarchy “. Thousands marched, carrying flags and blocking intersections. Even with the police out in force trying to direct traffic. They were very peaceful, just a blockage. Sigh.
We finally began moving bit by bit, but it had given us the opportunity to see the outrageous wiring that hangs everywhere. Cyndi asked “ What do they do if there’s an electrical problem?” probably just start cutting and splicing. There’s also a lot of decorating of shops with fake flowers – apparently in preparation for Diwali, the Festival of Lights, that’s coming this next weekend.
Our final stop was the New Market, which was anything but that. Actually a huge street market selling all kinds of merchandise and complete with hawkers and beggars. I mentioned to Lily that I’d like to buy one of the casual outfits that are comprised of a long tunic and pants. After much ado she took us to a shop she knew of where they were happy to pull out option after option before I finally decided.
By then it was time to return to the residency. We rested a while and then ventured out on our own for dinner. That was an adventure all its own! We walked along the crowded roads and sidewalks until we could finally cross the street to the Mocambo restaurant. A delicious dinner completed our first full day.
