Remarkably…but that comes later.

After resting up in our bunks we wandered down to the common area from where we had been hearing someone playing the guitar, and rather well at that. Turned out to be Louis, from France. Who was actually staying at the albergue rather than just popping through, as before. We decided some sangria was in order as we joined the other pilgrims.

We were pleased that we could stay put and order dinner, enjoying the company. We had a great mix from Australia, US, Italy and France. What great conversation!

We woke up to more rain, but happily had some toast and coffee and more conversation before we all decided we couldn’t delay any longer. Off we went, still in the dark at 0800, in the perpetual rain, with coat on and umbrella up. Same story. as the last few days.

We walked through Caldas de Reis, seeing some fun street art and carving making the city walking more interesting.

Until it wasn’t the same story! We found a cafe which was actually open after a few hours walk. It was packed with pilgrims. We squeezed in, getting coffee and juice. And in came the Aussies from our stay last night, plus J. P. , whom we met yesterday, who is also from Seattle. While we were inside the weather finally shifted a bit. I put up my umbrella out of habit but it was only slightly misty. It soon stopped and brief peeks of blue sky started appearing. I kept my umbrella up as I thought they might just be sucker holes, but no! The blue sky increased and the sun even started shining! Wonders never cease!

The difference it made was palpable. People started perking up. Instead of just keeping one’s head down there were more Buen Camino greetings.

The walk took us through mostly good tree lined paths though there was much back and forth still trying to avoid puddles and mud. Water draining everywhere. A few dicey crossings for this old one, but I feel strong and well balanced this go round.

We stopped at a creek crossing where some benches provided a good rest spot. Along came the Aussies, Michelle from the Netherlands and Kathy and Bob from Vermont. Mandy mentioned that a cafe was expected up the path in about a half km. Yay! Off we went and sure enough, not only was it there but from it emanated great music and a sign announcing vegan food. Couldn’t get any better.

Up the steep stairs we went, finding a table for all six of us. Plus the best lunch! Lentil soup, bread, wine and plum cake. Yum. And great company, sharing stories and enjoying the sun and good music. Just what we all needed after days of being wet.

It was a longer walk today, but it wasn’t hard to take given the unexpected better weather. We are ever closer to Santiago, staying near Padrón, having crossed the Rio Ulla. Fellow pilgrims are starting to mention their plans for finishing. We still have two weeks before flying home, so more to come.

12.5 miles with 29,564 steps