The Coastal Route

The huge albergue turned out to be less of an issue than we expected. Though we don’t know the exact number of pilgrims who stayed last night but it had to be around 50-60. Our room had 15 beds and the connected one another 15. Plus other connected rooms and a second floor. But the good news was we met all kinds of hikers, all of whom were in their first day of hiking, starting out in Porto. Eventually people settled in for the night, lights went out and all one saw was the glow from phones anyone was using. Amazingly, it was a quiet group! With my ear plugs in I didn’t hear a single snore. Most unusual.

By 0600 folks were stirring, into the bathroom, into the kitchen and packing up. We got going earlier than we really needed to, but all three of us woke up, ate a quick breakfast and got set to leave. Luckily Mandy did one last “stoner” check and found I’d left my water bottle under the bed.

Off we went into another soft morning. Misty, but not raining. The worst of it came overnight. We walked through the small town and out to the boardwalk along the ocean. Waves crashing on shore and over rocks along the coast.

As the morning wore on the weather continued to ease, eventually allowing the sun to be able to poke out. We could see the line of rain squalls out at sea, but were grateful they stayed there.

The boardwalk continued on for the most part but at times we wandered through small towns, finding nary a cafe open , but often some interesting objects. Like the group of figures aligned along the cliff edge, reminding us of a similar character in the north of Iceland we had come across.

And then one of our favorite things was the “boat” in Vila Cha made out of recycled plastic items. We amused ourselves quite a bit with that.

At one point a section of the boardwalk was closed so they could work on it and restore the area. The sign diverted hikers either into the town or onto the beach. What do you think we chose? The beach, of course! While we had been walking alongside it for several days, it was the first time to walk down the dune. The beach was strewn with a peculiar seaweed or vegetation of some sort. Near as we could determine it was an eel grass. It popped when you stepped on it. Always fun. We dodged the waves crashing in and enjoyed walking on a different surface.

Later on as we approached Vila do Conde we could once again access the boardwalk and then finally spotted an open cafe. Coffee would soon be had! Americanos ordered we took turns posing on the indoor swing.

Crossing the Rio Ave into the city we were amazed to see tons of that same eel grass swirling and pushing its way down the river as we crossed the bridge. It was almost disorienting to watch it too closely, almost dizzying.

Once across the bridge we walked through a beautiful park with massive beds of New Guinea impatiens. There we found several other pilgrims with whom we had shared the evening before. Fun to hear their plans. Many times you barely meet, enjoying the company and then you don’t run across them again. But you all feel a closeness as you’re all in it together.

Mandy found us a pleasant lunch spot to enjoy and rest our feet. The kids are good at letting me stop frequently to make sure my feet are holding up. So I knew they wouldn’t complain when I spotted a shop selling gelato. With the sun out and it getting warmer it hit the spot.

And then we were approaching the end of our day’s walk once we entered the town of Póvoa de Varzim. Mandy had reserved us private rooms in a local guest house. It is my favorite one thus far! We were greeted by the owner, shown to our rooms, got registered and then got the royal treatment. She sat us down and poured welcoming glasses of port! Plus she gave us the opportunity to do laundry. A blessing!

While my feet have basically healed I am treating them gingerly. I tape them up with the special stuff from the pharmacy. But still my left foot with the worst bunion is giving me some grief. Last night Karma had suggested I loosen the laces, which helped. Now we have cut open the shoe somewhat so the bunion won’t rub. We may have to cut it open completely. Sort of sandal-like. TBD.

9.8 miles today with 24, 596 steps

2 thoughts on “The Coastal Route

  1. loralajorza's avatar loralajorza

    I love the boat and the people, are you getting some new creative ideas!!!? I love this seaside route you are on. What a great welcome to a new place to stay, this lady is a born hostess it sounds like. I think I know why Mandy and Kevin wear Teva’s Take care you!!! The photos wonderful again!!

    Liked by 1 person

Leave a comment